Climbing Road Trip: April 2006

Thursday, April 27, 2006

Leaving Las Vegas .........

I managed to make it out of Las Vegas without gambling at all. It just didn't seem like a solid way to expand on my cash flow in a positive way. I did get all I wanted out of Red Rocks though and the trip was punctuated with a visit from Nashville hard man, James Parker.

Before leaving Erick and I suffered, I suffered anyway, up a 7 pitch sport climb. Unimpeachable Grouping 5.10d, named after a former president, was fun but I think I like multi-pitch trad better or at least belay ledges anyway. Erick rocked it though. On-siting every pitch and following all of mine clean. The route is in red and from the top out you can see the Las Vegas Strip. More on that later.

We did manage to find a super crack climb in the mist of all the sport climbing. Atman 5.10, was the one of the best routes I did in Red Rocks. That and Straight Shooter a 5.9 finger crack. Just to the left, in the picture, on the perpendicular wall is Yin Yang a super hard 5.11 finger to hand crack. I didn't manage to get it clean but I did enjoy it and would recommend it. Both routes are short but quality cracks.

The Hardman come'ith. James got out with us of for a day and went straight to work on The Gift 5.12 hard at the gallery. We worked most of the hard routes in that area and James took some amazing photos from the top of one route. (James send me copies or I will post your video, the one I call TAKE!!!!). I kept throwing myself at Yak Crack 5.11c with no success other than a great workout from 5 laps on it. All and all it was great day and was followed by great sushi and a little Vegas nightlife with the Parker family. Good Times.

Parting thoughts on Red Rocks are summed up with this shot of Zola (Fleming). Quit possibly the best crag dog ever. While I was ready to leave Red Rocks and the desert for that matter, I will miss climbing with Erick, Nicole and Zola. We have enjoyed some great climbing and each others company a lot. And, I needed to redeem myself on the chess board. As for Red Rocks, I give it a B-/C+. The area offers more diverse climbing than anywhere else and the weather, convenience and access make it great for short visits. Unfortunately that same access and convenience threatens the park. Quit frankly Red Rocks is too close to Vegas and Vegas keeps growing towards it. I hope the park, as a national asset, is able to defend itself against the local political and private business interest.

Next stop Yosemite!!!

Saturday, April 08, 2006

Jackpot!! Red Rocks, NV

Just 15 miles from the Las Vegas strip is Red Rocks National Park and it has all the color of Vegas! The red striped colors in the sandstone make Red Rocks a stand out and the diversity of climbing makes it a world class destination.

The climbing ranges from big wall traditional climbing to well protected, overhanging sport climbing. All of which is on beautiful sandstone. The area also boosts quite a selection of limestone sport climbing.

So far I climbed mainly single pitch sport climbs and the routes are fantastic. The rock features are endless and the walls go from slad to steep to roof, anything you want. I have done one short multi-pitch trad climb and found that the protection was solid and the climbing awesome.

With the weather continuing to improve, I would say the crux to Red Rocks is going to be getting around the 14 day camping limit. Someone send me a license plate so I can get another 14 days.

Monday, April 03, 2006

FALLING!!!!!!!!! April Fools....... got you

It has been a great 2 weeks, 3 if you count the San Francisco Trip. This last week Erick, Nicole and I have been climbing cracks almost every day. Erick and Nicole although from different places originally were recently living in Nashville and are on a 5 month road trip themselves. They showed me the ropes in Hueco Tanks and I was able to return the favor here in Joshua Tree.

Erick and Nicole have both spent more time sport climbing and bouldering than trad (traditional) climbing. Joshua Tree was there first real sustained exposure to placing gear on lead routes. Both strong technical climbers, we played off each other well. Talking with them about gear placements, anchors and technique helped me to climb more comfortably. And being with them while they pushed there own comfort levels, leading harder & harder routes, helped me to push my own abilities.

I have had trouble red pointing (no falls) and especially on-sighting (no falls, 1st try) 5.10 trad. The last 3 days I managed to on-site a 10a each day; Effigy Too, Exorcist and Taxman. It was a great birthday present and an even better send off.