Bugaboos - Parting shots and comments....

I ended up spending a little over 2 weeks in the Bugaboos and was able to climb more than I ever expected. The weather and my luck with partners was accommodating. My overall tick list includes: The Kain Route 5.7, The Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 (one of the 50 classics), Lion’s Way 5.7, The Snowpatch Route 5.8, Surf’s Up 5.9, ½ of McTech Arête 5.10 and the Northeast Ridge of Eastpost Spire 4^th class. I left behind a lot including the Beckey-Chouinard Route 5.10 (22p) on South Howser Tower. I need some more alpine experience before hitting that one.
McTech Arete (out the roof and up the left-leaning crack)

Afternoon weather
(this one caught us 1/2 up McTech but not before the fun 5.10, face crack)

I have a few more pictures to post on the routes I did since my last post but I mainly wanted to share some of my notes with others who are thinking of going to the Bugs or to do any alpine for the 1^st time. First off season, I hit it perfect in Mid-July this year. Typically you are better off closer to August and no later than September. The season is dictated by afternoon thunderstorms and the melt. The descent/ rappel route off the Howsers can be closed if the cornice has not fallen of the top. And the Bugaboo Col can be pretty nasty late in the year as the bergshrund opens up but there is a rap route for this also. Camping at Applebee Dome campsite is pretty swank for alpine camping. There are pit toilets and all the sites are established. That being said you are still at ~9000’ on a rock slab and totally exposed.

Mount Assiniboine, The "Canadian Matterhorn" (in the back center)

Bring a tent that can standup to the wind, rain and hail. I liked that I could cook in my vestibule also. Glacier travel; at least read a book about it and be familiar with the objective hazards, rope skills and self arrest methods. Glacier travel is a part of every approach and descent and although it is not difficult, being knowledgeable about it will improve your confidence and you’ll move faster. Attire; I took it all not knowing what to expect and wanting to be prepared. Next time I will have some light to mid-weight synthetic climbing pants, a pair of light weight, and flexible crampons for my approach shoes and I’ll carry a 25 to 35 liter pack. I did Snowpatch with my full on mountaineering pack with my huge mountaineering boots and crampons inside. Lead climbing with a 40+ pound pack sucks almost as bad as trying to simul-climb low 5^th class in mountain boots. Moving fast is key since the weather changes rapidly in the afternoons. Most routes took us 8 – 12 hours. Learn to simul-climb in approach shoes and with a pack. Typically both climbers carry a pack, not just the follower. Also get a pack that your ax or a ski pole will attach to. Short axes are great, nut tools work for minimalist.

Last and most important, partners. I got really got lucky and hooked up with some good folks to climb with but even good partners need to have experience climbing together. You cover a lot more terrain in alpine and even though you may not be climbing at your technical limit, wasted time and miscommunication can be dangerous. I really envied the teams that came prepared with objectives and past climbing experience. Develop a partner and train with them. Set a tick list and go balls out together. You will get a lot more out of the trip that way and you won’t have to make 2 trips to get all of your gear up to camp (and bust you gut getting it all down in one trip).

Morning View (I am gonna miss that)

These are just some notes to myself and anyone who is interested and are not by any means complete. I really enjoyed the Bugs and alpine rock climbing. It mixes backcountry, glacier travel in with remote, committing multi-pitch rock climbing. I am hooked and currently looking for partners to go back to the Bugs and onto the Winds and The Diamond.