Oregon - High Desert Rock and Volcanic Glaciers

Oregon is treating me right. I got to Oregon last week and have been climbing almost everyday since. I started out by climbing Mt. Bachelor just outside of Bend, OR. At 9,064', Bachelor is mainly a ski mountain but a climbing route does exist up the back, west side. It was perfect for me because a weather system was coming in and I wanted to try out my bivy gear in weather. I found a perch at 8,500'and dug in (pic 2) with a beautiful view of the South Sister and Broken tooth. As evening came on, the winds picked up and clouds came in. I had a terrific night of intermitted whiteout and half moon, starry night conditions. The next morning I woke early boiled some snow for oatmeal and finished the climb making it back in time to get to a Laundromat (to dry clothes) by noon. Nice climb, really fun in the weather. From Bachelor I headed on to Smith Rock. Smith Rock State Park is just outside of Terrebonne, OR at ~3,000’. Since it is east of the cascades precipitation is minimal. Smith and the surrounding area is considered high plains desert and the mesas couldn’t be more beautiful especially with the snow capped cascades as a back drop. I made a partner that day and have been climbing most everyday since.

James, my climbing partner, even agreed to climb Mt. Hood with me. So after a couple days on the rock, we headed over to Hood. Under a clear sky we headed up Hood at 5 am on Wednesday morning. While were not the 1st on the route we were not the last either. We were, however one of the few teams with no skis. Skis would have been nice for the approach and the descent. These are some pictures of the route. The hogback ridge (pic 4), the Pearly Gates (pic 3) and of course the summit (pic 1) are some of the features in the pictures. I also managed to meet 2 Texans on the route. Walter and Ryan were each on the mountain separately but we all ended up making the final push together and Ryan has joined James and I back at Smith. Walt was good enough to contribute some of the better pictures, thanks Walter.

Back at Smith I have been fortunate enough to have a great guide in James. James spent a month here a few years ago and knows the park quite well. We have rotated between climbing sport routes and trad routes both in the main park and the gorge (pic 5). The gorge is all trad and the rock is Basalt which adds to the parks diversity. This past weekend we ended up climbing beside Dean Potter in the gorge. He and Steph Davis were at Smith for a Hera Foundation event to raise money for ovarian cancer.

I also got a chance to climb with an old friend. Angela Purviance and her boyfriend, John came up this past weekend. John choose to fish while we climbed. Their visit was great and it gave us reason enough to have big family-style supper complete with wine and a nice fire, good times indeed. Sunday, Angie, Ryan and I, in an attempt to find the shade, made our way around the other side of the park and I got this shot of Monkey Face (pic 7). James and I got on Monkey Face this week but with the heat and birds (their nest and droppings) we lost motivation a couple pitches below the summit.

Speaking of weather, its 89 here today and the forecast does not offer much relief over the next few days. I am starting to lean North and making my plans for Washington and British Columbia.