Last Post From Hueco

It’s been a great week at the Ranch here in Hueco. I had originally planned to leave Hueco after a week but the weather in Utah and the climbing in Hueco made me stay. I started the week off by getting on a Volunteer Guided Tour to East Mountain. The tours are guided by climbers and give you access to the back country; East and West Mountain. There are also commercial tours but, they cost extra. Tours are a good way to get in the park if you do not have reservations. Mine ran out last week so I have been taking what I can get.

East Mountain was great. I am constantly amazed at how expansive the park is and East Mountain was no different. Everywhere you turn, crawl over or crawl under; there are more boulders and more problems to climb. It's endless.

I also spent some more time on North Mountain. North Mountain is all walk-ins. No guides are needed.

Rock Ranch Rodeo! The annual bouldering competition was this weekend and what a party. I needed a few days off from climbing to let my body recover so volunteered to help setup and register people for the comp. This earned me a hat, a meal and free admision to the party. There were close to 100 competitors and over 60 spectators. Ten dollars of every registration went directly back to the park. Everyone that registered got into on the party as well plus all the others that volunteered or just showed up out of the dessert. The party was complete with a huge bonfire, a local honktonk band, kegs and a Red Bull & Vodka bar.

Wednesday, I am going to head to Utah. I want to stop and do Mexican Hat on the way. It is only a couple of pitches and all aid. Aid climbing is when you use hardware to climb rather than free climbing which is where you use your body. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=5

Also, I have added The Grand Wall in Squamish to the "to be sent list" with Jamie Corkins. If anyone has any beta on it, please forward. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=2256

New Shipping Address (March 1st - 17th):
U.S. Postal Service
50 East 100 North
Moab, UT 84532 p.(435) 259-7427* One thing I have found out, the post office does not accept FedEx or UPS shipments. Please use USPS only and thank all you for sending me stuff. It’s a real treat.

News from Hueco

The Rock Ranch is awesome. Wish I could say the same for the weather. Yeap, it even gets cold in Hueco but not as bad as everywhere else. The first day was nice. Only the wind kept me from wearing shorts and going shirtless even in the shade. Since then we have had some clouds and cooler temps. But its fine when you’re climbing.

I can't say enough about the Ranch, except for the porta lets, its has everything. A shower, wireless internet, a cooking shed and an insulated barn with chess boards, card games, TV and even a foosball table. The sites are pretty primitive but you're in the dessert and the dessert is great just the way it is. Clear nights and mornings are amazing.

The bouldering is world class and the problems are limitless. The park is regulated but the rules are sensible and access to the East and West Mountains can be gained by taking a tour. Reservations and an orientation session are required to enter the park, seeing some of the pictographs and flora explains why.

There has been no shortage of Nashvillians yet. I showed up Wednesday, then Eric and Nicole showed up Thursday and Jesse and Sammy came in for the weekend. I have also met folks from Seattle, French Canada, North Carolina and somewhere in Eastern Europe.

With the weather staying cold in Utah, looks like I will get plenty more practice bouldering (which I need). Hope this finds everyone well.

Warren

Updated Itinerary w/ New Visits

A couple of brave souls have committed to meeting me. Below are 2 trips that are set.

Cascades and Smith Rock Climbing w/ Jamie Corkins: May 22 - June 6
Goal: Mt Rainier http://www.nps.gov/mora/

Yosemite w/ Chris Lewis: September 16 - 22
Goal: Serenity Crack
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral
East Buttress o f El Cap












This means I will be in California in the fall, most likely from late August until the end of October.

Current Itinerary:
Hueco Tanks (TX): Feb 16-24
Indian Creek & Zion (UT): Feb 24 - March 22
Red Rocks (NV): March 24 - ?
Joshua Tree & Yosemite (CA): April / May
Smith Rock (OR): May
Cascades (WA & OR): May 22 - June
Squamish (BC): June / July
Bugaboos (BC): July / August
Yosemite (CA): September - October
Somewhere warm: November