Climbing Road Trip

Red Mountain to the Matterhorn - coming soon

2011-05-21T12:31:00.000-07:00

The blogging may have stopped but the trip certainly has not. Check back for a summary of the last 4 seasons that eventually led to an amazing ski tour across the Alps and a new home Butte, MT.

Montana Ski Patrol 07/08; Mountains.....

2008-01-19T18:38:00.000-08:00

Well I have gotten all settled in to my new job on ski patrol at the Yellowstone Club in Big Sky, MT. We actually started working the week after Thanksgiving and opened the mountain the 14th of December. Prior to that was training and mountain set up. Since then I have managed 38 days of skiing. We work 4 days on, on our normal schedule and the 3 days off usually get spent skiing at Big Sky Resort, Lone Peak, which is adjacent to the Club.

I like the mornings best of all. This is the view on any given morning as we unload the lifts to set up and open the mountain. We typically arrive to work at 7:30 dress, meet and get out the door by 8. The exception to this is on avalanche control mornings which may require an earlier start depending on how much control work needs to be done but even then, you can't bomb in the dark.

Days are spent setting up and sweeping the mountain for changing conditions and possibles accidents. Manual control work (shoveling cornice, z cutting slopes and general snow pack assessment) is done every morning on the steeper terrain and runs are opened or closed accordingly. Our day time work load typically includes drills on toboggan handling, medical continuing ed and/or avalanche transceiver (beacon) drills mixed in with responding to wrecks and general trail maintenance. This is a view of Pioneer Mountain, our main mountain at the Club. It stands at 9860' and offers plenty of steep terrain off the main ridge with excellent tree skiing off the back. In this picture you are looking South, Southwest along the ridge proper. In the background, you are looking down the Madison range toward Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons, on the right is the Madison Valley. This is the work mountain.

Next is Lone Peak (11,166') a.k.a. Big Sky Resort. Not to be confused with the town of Big Sky that I live in. There is Big Sky Mountain Resort and Big Sky unincorporated town, MT USA. I live in Big Sky town, play at Big Sky Resort (Lone Peak) and work on Pioneer Mountain. You are looking at the south face of Lone Peak which is lift served from by a tram that runs just over the ridge on the right. Most of the lifts operate just over the ridge, out of site. The south face view shows some of the more challenging skiing. There is a lot of skiing above tree line. This is the play mountain.

All work and all play without infatuation would be a dull life. This is Cedar Mountain (10,719'), ain't she grand. Cedar lies to the west of Pioneer and Lone Mountains in the Lee Metcalf Wilderness. This undeveloped peak shows off almost all day, everyday. Cedar will get blocked out by storms but sometimes even under 30-50 mph winds and near white-out conditions if you look up, you can still see her sitting there just as peace full as you please. Cedar Mountain doesn't have the easiest access but offers a world of backcountry skiing, climbing and is just real fun to look at. This is the daydream/inspiration mountain.

My current mailing address is:
Warren Harden
P.O. Box 160091
Big Sky, MT 59716

Shipping address is:
Warren Harden
Glacier Condo # 133
2575 Curley Bear
Big Sky, MT 59716

I hope this finds everyone well and I wish everyone a happy and healthy new year.

Best regards from Big Sky!

Winter 07/08

2007-10-10T15:25:00.000-07:00

I don't know why but I felt like updating this blog. I should have been doing all along but spring was unexpected, summer was event full, fall has been great and winter looks to be the most promising of them all. Here's the run down.

Spring - I broke my right ankle/leg (ouch)

Summer - I guided rafting trips on the Clark Fork River for Pangaea River Rafting, http://www.pangaea-expeditions.net/pangaea_privacy_policy.htm and worked for Missoula Parks and Rec in Outdoor Rec (Awesome summer)

Fall - finds me in Golden, British Columbia studying Outdoor Emergency Care (wilderness EMT) to work on ski patrol at The Yellowstone Club in Big Sky, MT. http://www.theyellowstoneclub.com/skiing/index.aspx

(The Kicking Horse River set in the Rockies of British Columbia)

The leg is healed, getting stronger and all is well. Come see me this winter!!!

(Lone Peak - Big Sky, MT)

meanwhile back at the ranch ....... (@ home in TN)

2007-01-04T12:55:00.000-08:00

Well I have been home for over 2 months now and figure its time for a post. Just because I quit traveling doesn't mean that I have quit climbing on the contrary since I have been home I have gotten even more exposure.

It starts with "Country Christmas" at the Opryland Hotel. Every year they decorate the place and Convention Production Rigging hangs all of the Christmas lights, globes, bear, pandas ... you name it and thanks to the help of my buddies Mark McKinney and Richard Amend (owner), I got to help. These are some shots of us hanging lights in the high steel. We are currently taking all of this back and out. I can't thank Richard enough for working me on these gigs. The work has provided a much needed income on a temporary basis.

Unfortunately, you can’t work all the time so I have gotten in little rock climbing as well. These are shots from Tennessee Wall. T Wall is a trad crag in Chattanooga with tiered roof sandstone; its like sport climbing on gear.

I have also been fortunate to get on some big stuff. Since Mark and I have been working together, our work schedules are pretty much the same and we have taken advantage of that to do couple of winter ascent wall routes at Looking Glass Rock in North Carolina. Loaded with warm clothes, hot tea, a porta-ledge and ½ dozen screamers; we went to work on Rowin’s Route (A2+) with the Blonde Ambition finish (A3). Rain kept up from finishing the slab top out but we didn’t feel cheated. Carolina aid climbing grades are stiff and 2 days of rusty heads was plenty. This is a sunrise shot from the porta-ledge. (Aid climbing is when you use gear – pitons, cams, nuts, copper heads, ect.- to advance up the wall. Typically aid climbs are steeper to over hung, blank walls)

Next we roped up for the Scott Fisher Memorial (5.10, A3) put up in 1997 after the many deaths (Scott Fisher included) on Mt. Everest in 1996. Again we were kept from topping out but this time it was from melting ice which had collected on the upper slabs and rained over us for the 2 days we were on the wall. We completed 3 pitches of A2+ climbing to get just below the last bulge which protected us from the ice fall above. (Aid climbing also takes a lot of stuff and it was cold and it’s a short approach, ect….)

All of this of course has been worked in and around the holidays which was the main reason I came home. I have really enjoyed being home to reconnect with friends and spend time with my family. One of the ways the family gets together is duck hunting on my step father's farm and cabin. It has been nice to have the flexibility to spend a lot of time at the farm cabin. Time spent not only hunting but preparing, repairing and lots of eating. This is shot of the bottom and our blind. Good times.

So what’s next? Montana, the University of Montana in Missoula to be exact. I begin classes to pursue a Masters in Economics this spring. My end goal is to work in some type of sustainable development practice working to drive value in development rather than development for developments sake. My background with TVA has turned me on to the possibilities in Economic Development and I'd like to take it further. I hope to incorporate resource, environmental and ecological concerns into our ever evolving economic system … and do some backcountry skiing, climbing and mountaineering along the way.

I hope this finds everyone healthy, wealthy and wise for the New Year and I looking forward to hearing from you all.

Parting shot, duck hunting can really be tough. You must always stay alert.
(Harden Battels, nephew)

Back to the Valley and the road home...

2006-12-01T09:52:00.000-08:00

I am playing a little catch up since I have been back home in TN now since Halloween. I have been more than a little distracted and not as motivated to update my site but there are some shots and comments that I really have to post. These are a few.

(Bouldering in Camp 4 on Backercracker)

I returned the Valley for a week of climbing with the Sloss family. Drew and Casey came back for a fall tour and we stacked it objectives. We wanted to climb some of the classic easier routes as a group of 3 and Drew and I wanted to test ourselves on some of classic moderate 5.9's and 10's.

(Casey following on Snake Dike, Half Dome)

Our overall ticklist for the week included Jam Crack, Munginella, Central Pillar of Frenzy, the Grack, the East Buttress of El Cap and a grand finale on Snake Dike, Half Dome. Strong work and good times.

(the team tops out Half Dome)

From Yosemite I headed east to reconnect with Ben and Indian Creek before heading home, see why?

(Ben getting busy on Kool Cat)

(Coin Crack)

(Rain Delay)

So much can and should be said about the events of the last 2 months and these pictures only capture a little of the good times had in great places with even better folks. All I can do for now is say that although I have returned home, the trip is not over and there is more to come.

I would like to address a few of the questions I have been asked most since returning.

q. You must have seen some wild stuff, did you ever get into any bad situations or what was the most threatening thing that happened to you?
a. No, nothing. Besides going a little postal trying to find the laundromat in Las Vegas or being overcharged for internet usage ($12) in Ontario nothing bad happen to me. The most offensive person I met was the US Customs Agent. As for natural threats, you accept that challenge when you sign up. That is just part of the deal.

q. What was the best part of your trip?
a. The people. It is really rewarding to meet and engage folks with no agenda. There are some really good, intelligent people out there and a lot can be learned. You just have to get out of traffic to meet them.

q. Would you do it again?
a. Yes, and often.

........ more to come. I didn't come home and quit climbing.

Rain in the Valley - Sun in the Desert

2006-11-01T12:15:00.000-08:00

We are such fair weather climbers that even the hint of rain sends us running. Yeah that or the fact that Owens River Gorge is that great.

Either way a crew us headed the Owens River Gorge in Bishop, CA the other day and it was nice, real nice. You got to love the desert.

These are some shots of Owens River Gorge and the Happy Boulders of Bishop, CA.

And a parting shot on Mono Lake @ dusk. Back to the Valley.

Yosemite WALLS!!!!

2006-10-06T12:48:00.000-07:00

Yosemite granite has to be the best climbing on the planet and the setting couldn’t be better. Yosemite is my last stop, or could be my last stop before heading home at the end of this month. Yosemite is also the place I have climbed the most and I am here for peak season. Put the two together and you have a great combination of familiar faces both rock and human. Right off the bat I hooked up with a friend of a friend that I had made along the way and we got on some of the super classic routes in the Valley. Greg and I hit the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock (1 of the 50 classics), Generator Crack, Commitment and Salginela in the 1^st few days. Soon after that a former Tennessean, Ben Ricketts showed up in camp and he and I managed to keep the momentum going by getting on Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday. All in all it was a great 1^st run at the Valley’s classics routes.

A planned visit from another Tennessean, John Bass, got Ben and I to scheming on something big that we could all do together. It seemed that the southern contingent needed to do a wall, a first wall, and what better a target than the Nose of El Captain. The team while not experienced at Big Wall climbing was perfect for a good solid go at their 1^st wall. Ben has spent many seasons in Yosemite and is climbing hard and fast on granite. John of course is superman, capable of climbing just about anything off the couch. And then there’s me, let’s just say I was there for the hauling and the aid climbing. I have done a few solo aid routes, a grade IV and had a good solo run on Washington Column in the spring. Done, we are committed. Ben and I set out gathering food, water bottles, and waste containers in preparation.

The plan is 3 days and 2 nights plus one day fixing lines. Ben and I will climb, haul and fix lines to Sickle Ledge (5 pitches, ~400’) and rap down to meet John on Wednesday evening. All goes well except that it takes Ben and I all day instead of the 5 hours we thought it would take to fix to Sickle. Traffic killed us. The route is really crowded and it’s hot. Regardless we get the pitches in, haul “Lewis” (our 80+ pound haul bag) to Sickle, fix and rappel to the ground. After hooking up with John we set in on final preparation with a little celebration, finish packing another haul bag and head to beg for an early start.

We start the morning by running 2 bears off at our fixed lines and one by one we begin jugging the 3 fixed ropes to our high point; Ben first, then John w/ the haul bag and lastly me with a small pack retrieving ropes on the way. We arrived in time for the traffic jam that we left the afternoon before and for a sunrise that was already warming the wall up. The next 3 pitches went slow. Not the climbing but the overall moving from pitch to pitch. Sickle was also the last flat stance we would have until Dolt Tower, everything in between was hanging. The process of waiting, then climbing, fixing, lowering out the haul bag, jugging, cleaning and hauling took much longer on the 2 traversing pitches into the Stove Legs than it should have but we were improving our system as we went. Getting into and then up a pitch of the Stove Legs killed us. We had spent most of the day waiting around and on perfecting our system and had neglected to take in enough food and water. When would get a chance to move we took it and by late afternoon the heat had gotten the best of us. Then we had one last hold up before dusk. The team of 3 ahead of us decided to bail and had to rappel through my anchor. It was so uncomfortable that is was funny. There I was with my 2 haul bags (Lewis & Jamie) on a 2 bolt, 1 cam hanging anchor with 3 matching Koreans and their haul bags. Nice guys but the matching outfits and 2-way radios were a little too much.

(This Ben leading over to the Stove Legs Crack and traffic)

Now we are free to move but its getting dark and we are somewhat wasted from the day. Just three hundred feet to Dolt Tower, our bivy, well short of our intended bivy at El Cap Tower but a welcome break for hanging in our harnesses and it’s my turn to lead. I have always wanted to climb in the dark and it turns out that El Cap would be my 1^st chance. I sent the next 3 pitches of perfect crack climbing completely on aid. I may have made a free move or 2 but mostly I walked 1”, 2”, 3”, 3.5”, 4” and even 4.5” (thanks Greg) cams to top of Dolt Tower is a record 6+ hours (sarcasm). We managed to get all of us along with Lewis and Jamie (haul bags) to the ledge by 3 AM and we set into devouring cans of fruit and jugs of Gatorade. A lot folks wonder how you sleep on a wall. I too would like to know because I don’t remember any of it. I laid down (tied in of course) and pasted out only to be resurrected by the sun a few hours later.

(Bivy on Dolt Tower)

So this was our high point and the decision was made to bail. El Cap tower, 4 pitches above us hosted 2 teams we knew of and possibly a third, it wasn’t getting any cooler and we had to face the fact that we were slow. So we bailed from Dolt Tower, 11 pitches up @ ~ 1000’ of the 3000’ face. Rappelling was no small task even after we had dumped most of the water. The eight double rope rappels put us on the ground a little after 2 PM on day 2.

(John rapping with haul bag)

In hindsight, I’d do it all over again. We had a blast. Its hard work and can be uncomfortable but man what a view!

Next up:

Bouldering

Owens River Gorge

Bishop

And a visit from Drew and KcD!

Family Vacation(s) - OR Coast, Columbia River, Mt Hood, Tetons and Yellowstone

2006-09-17T17:52:00.000-07:00

It is hard to do all the activity I have had justice in a post but I am going to try. If the title to this one confuses you, I will try to clear things up. Mom and Lee had planned to visit me in August upon my return from Canada. We planned and pulled off a whorl-wind tour of the Oregon Coast up the Columbia River and over to Mt. Hood. I say we planned it but we really just booked their flights, rented a car, packed the cooler and set off with nothing more than our intentions set and the rest we left to fate. I have to say it all worked out great and as the pictures will show, we didn’t miss much. The second of my family vacations was even more spontaneous. Seems the warm weather in TN and apparent lull in activity drove my Dad to fly out and visit The Tetons and Yellowstone with me. Again we set our intentions; book ended our dates and hit the road.

Mom, Lee and Me – Oregon:

We started out in Portland but really only spent enough time there to get supplies, which translates to food for us, and a couple of guide books from REI. From there we hit the road headed west. We started at Tillamook, OR and made our way North up the coast hitting towns, beaches and highlights along the way. Our favorite stops being Cannon Beach and Fort Clatsop. Here are the windblown travelers on a beach that Lewis and Clark had frequented years earlier.

From the mouth of the Columbia we turned east and headed up the Columbia River to Hood River, OR. In keeping with our adventurous style we didn’t hesitate to pull a u-turn and check things out along way. We also seldom passed an interesting dinner (seafood) and we were never far away from an espresso stand, whether wanted to be or not. These are the traveling Tennesseans atop Multnomah Falls. The tallest falls in Oregon and a 2 mile, 700’+ vertical gain form the parking lot. We earned our dinner that dinner day.

From Hood River we first traveled up the valley toward Mt Hood by train taking a day trip into the country and through all of the orchards. From there we returned to Hood River and made our way around a forest fire to Mt Hood via the Dalles. In one day we went from lush vegetation to high desert to alpine timber. Mt Hood Lodge, of all the times (2) that I have been to Mt. Hood I have never been treated as nicely as when I was actually staying in the Mt. Hood lodge, thanks to Mom and Lee. And I have definitely not eaten as well, although I think I do prefer sleeping in the parking lot rather than in the 1930, all wood (walls, floors, ceiling) lodge. I have to apologize to mom for correcting some of our neighbors at 3 in morning. The acoustics were a little much. This is the mother-son shot with a worthy objective in the background, Mt Jefferson. Can see all the weight she put on me in just a week.

Thank-you Mom and Lee for great visit, I don’t think anyone could have topped our efforts.

Hot weather drives local man mad – Teton and Yellowstone:

So dad and I are talking on the phone one Sunday evening and he asks what I have planned for the near future. I explained that my plans we sort of up in the air for the next 2 weeks. He suggests that I visit Yellowstone. I agree that, that would be a good destination and he says, I will come out and go with you. Monday plane tickets get purchased and by Friday I am picking him up at the airport in Idaho Falls. Hot weather and nothing to hunt is dangerous combination for my dad.

Dad and I hit the road running but not before a nice big meal and a Moose Drool or 2(man I eat good when family is around). We peeled through Jackson Hole and right on into Grand Teton National Park. I tried not to look too hard at the Tetons, since I new we wouldn’t be climbing them but wow! Let’s just say it was very reminiscent of the Canadian Rockies, definitely a must do. This is dad and I posed in front of the massive range, Grand Teton tops out a 13,777’. Yeah.

Before leaving the Tetons we stopped to take in a Moose, Bald and Golden Eagles. Dad had brought with him a spotting scope and we could have charged admission for all the views we allowed people. Dad was definitely poplar that day. We soon put the Tetons in the rear view and hit Yellowstone.

Our goal for Yellowstone was to hit the highlights, dodge the crowds and see some wildlife. Of course we could not miss Old Faithful and the trip would not have been complete without dad spotting a huge Elk and hearing him bugle. All and all we saw bear, elk, bison and mule deer. Not mention the paint pots, geysers, the canyon and Garner, MT.

Another great visit, thanks Dad.

Next posts – Idaho Whitewater on the Salmon and Yosemite Valley!!!!!

Current location – Camp 4 Yosemite Valley

Montana - The Missouri and Big Birthday (documented)

2006-08-24T11:28:00.000-07:00

Well since leaving

Canada

I have diverted somewhat from my original agenda of rock climbing destinations and it’s been great. I have to admit I needed a little brake from climbing after 6 months solid. I realized while in the Bugaboos that my cousin Whitney and husband John, whom I had not, lived in Missoula, MT. Due south on the same highway 93 that I was on in Canada. So I planned a side trip before meeting Mike and Meg in Spokane, WA.

WOW Montana is awesome and Whit & John know how to enjoy it. I arrived at their home around mid-night and was floating the Clark-Fork River by 10:30 the next morning. Quit a welcome. The fun started there and has not quit. That very weekend we took a 4 day trip floating a section of the historic Lewis & Clark path on the Missouri River. This is the crew including our mascot Juneau, Sacagawea was tied up.

This was my first multi-day float trip and it’s definitely the way to travel backcountry. When floating, weight is not a consideration which is good as I was still recovering from coming out of the bugs. We had all the comforts of car camping without the car and crowds. Whit and John spent 2 years guiding this river and know it well. I had the benefit of what some would pay close to $1000 for. We saw one crew with a support motor barge full of comforts. We paddled past them and waved bye from up high. This is the aptly named hole in the wall. It was the only prominent feature we passed that was not mentioned in Lewis’ Journals.

Hiking side canyons (slot canyons) is a must and the only way to appreciate and respect the history of former inhabitants. This is one surviving petroglyph just up from our first camp.

All and all the price of admission on the Missouri guided or not, is well worth it. The river, the wildlife and the sunsets are amazing.

Special thanks to John, Whitney & Juneau Todd.

….. and that was just my 1^st week back in the states. I must be living right because my second week can’t be outdone either; a Birthday visit from Mike and Meg Montgomery and its not even my birthday.

I have to start with – HAPPY 40^TH MIKE!! I know that has to erk him a just a little. He sure doesn’t act 40 or really look it but if I have to be 32 then he has to be 40. I mean I was only like 12 (or 25) when I met and made friends with him and he did help get me the job that I ended quitting to take this trip. And, he still talks to me, go figure.

Mike and Meg arrived in Spokane on a Friday morning after leaving TN ~ 4AM or something crazy like that. We immediately lit into catching up and getting wound up like good friends do. This is Mike and Meg at one of the Winery’s we visited just outside Spokane. It’s amazing we made it there, what with all the chatting, direction giving, bad maps and cramped conditions in my little truck not to mention a headache or two.

Of course I lobbied for a river trip given my recent introduction to the water in Montana. So we loaded up hit the Clark Fork. This time with Pangaea Expeditions (http://www.pangaea-expeditions.net/index.htm), a great rafting company that really knows how to do the Clark Fork. After already floating it once, I was surprised how much they added to the fun. Good Folks.

See now Mike doesn’t look 40 here. He does look like he’s going to get a mouth full of water. Also next time you see Mike; ask him how he likes swimming rapids?

There is a lot more to add on my visit with Mike and Meg but photos were not always taken and you just can’t publish everything. I will however publish the fact that Mike Montgomery’s 40^th Birthday has been immortalized in Spokane, WA in a pub named, O’Doherty’s AND that I helped do it. Here is the full story.

Chris, our bartender and fine fellow, enlightened us on how and why the signed $1 bills were all over the bar. The bills were there to document someone, something or both and the process to get the bill posted involved singing or telling a joke by a patron, sponsor, on top of the bar with everyone's attention. This ain’t no small pub either. I agreed to address the crowd on Mike’s behalf and chose to tell a joke as opposed to singing, since people were eating. The first picture proves I tried and the 2^nd proves I succeeded and that Mike Montgomery can never claim to be less than 40. Good Times!!

I want to leave you all with the joke I told and I encourage your comments. I like the joke and didn’t get the crowd approval that I think its worth.

Paddy and Murphy –

Paddy and Murphy are sitting at the bar discussing how broke they are when Paddy says, Murphy I got it. We’re Irish and we live by the sea. Yeah says Murphy. So most Irish love the Sea. Yeah says Murphy. We will start a business burying people at Sea. Brilliant says Paddy and they decide to put an ad in the paper. Two weeks later they get a call from Margaret who wants her recently deceased husband buried at Sea. Now this is Paddy and Murphy’s 1^st burial and they want to do it write. So boat loaded, Murphy begins to paddle them out to Sea. Paddy says that’s good and jumps over the side. He goes in to his waist and says, err it is not deep enough paddle out some more Murphy. A little farther out Paddy jumps over again this time going up to his neck but still it is not deep enough and has Murphy paddle out more. The again Paddy jumps over and goes down, down and then finally comes back up. Murphy says, “is it deep enough Paddy”. ‘Ihh its deep enough” says Paddy, “now gives us the shovel”.

Get it, “buried at Sea”.

Once again, Happy Birthday Mike!!! And thank you both for coming out. Nobody can do it up like we did.

Bugaboos - Parting shots and comments....

2006-08-09T18:27:00.000-07:00

I ended up spending a little over 2 weeks in the Bugaboos and was able to climb more than I ever expected. The weather and my luck with partners was accommodating. My overall tick list includes: The Kain Route 5.7, The Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 (one of the 50 classics), Lion’s Way 5.7, The Snowpatch Route 5.8, Surf’s Up 5.9, ½ of McTech Arête 5.10 and the Northeast Ridge of Eastpost Spire 4^th class. I left behind a lot including the Beckey-Chouinard Route 5.10 (22p) on South Howser Tower. I need some more alpine experience before hitting that one.
McTech Arete (out the roof and up the left-leaning crack)

Afternoon weather
(this one caught us 1/2 up McTech but not before the fun 5.10, face crack)

I have a few more pictures to post on the routes I did since my last post but I mainly wanted to share some of my notes with others who are thinking of going to the Bugs or to do any alpine for the 1^st time. First off season, I hit it perfect in Mid-July this year. Typically you are better off closer to August and no later than September. The season is dictated by afternoon thunderstorms and the melt. The descent/ rappel route off the Howsers can be closed if the cornice has not fallen of the top. And the Bugaboo Col can be pretty nasty late in the year as the bergshrund opens up but there is a rap route for this also. Camping at Applebee Dome campsite is pretty swank for alpine camping. There are pit toilets and all the sites are established. That being said you are still at ~9000’ on a rock slab and totally exposed.

Mount Assiniboine, The "Canadian Matterhorn" (in the back center)

Bring a tent that can standup to the wind, rain and hail. I liked that I could cook in my vestibule also. Glacier travel; at least read a book about it and be familiar with the objective hazards, rope skills and self arrest methods. Glacier travel is a part of every approach and descent and although it is not difficult, being knowledgeable about it will improve your confidence and you’ll move faster. Attire; I took it all not knowing what to expect and wanting to be prepared. Next time I will have some light to mid-weight synthetic climbing pants, a pair of light weight, and flexible crampons for my approach shoes and I’ll carry a 25 to 35 liter pack. I did Snowpatch with my full on mountaineering pack with my huge mountaineering boots and crampons inside. Lead climbing with a 40+ pound pack sucks almost as bad as trying to simul-climb low 5^th class in mountain boots. Moving fast is key since the weather changes rapidly in the afternoons. Most routes took us 8 – 12 hours. Learn to simul-climb in approach shoes and with a pack. Typically both climbers carry a pack, not just the follower. Also get a pack that your ax or a ski pole will attach to. Short axes are great, nut tools work for minimalist.

Last and most important, partners. I got really got lucky and hooked up with some good folks to climb with but even good partners need to have experience climbing together. You cover a lot more terrain in alpine and even though you may not be climbing at your technical limit, wasted time and miscommunication can be dangerous. I really envied the teams that came prepared with objectives and past climbing experience. Develop a partner and train with them. Set a tick list and go balls out together. You will get a lot more out of the trip that way and you won’t have to make 2 trips to get all of your gear up to camp (and bust you gut getting it all down in one trip).

Morning View (I am gonna miss that)

These are just some notes to myself and anyone who is interested and are not by any means complete. I really enjoyed the Bugs and alpine rock climbing. It mixes backcountry, glacier travel in with remote, committing multi-pitch rock climbing. I am hooked and currently looking for partners to go back to the Bugs and onto the Winds and The Diamond.

Bugaboos but not Bugaboo'ed........

2006-07-20T19:33:00.000-07:00

I have had a great week in the Bugs (Bugaboo Provincial Park - BC). For a place known for bad weather, I have had great weather. Not counting the 3 days of rain/snow that that I hiked gear up to my camp, set up and rested; it has been amazing.

The Bugaboos are in the Canadian Rockies near Banff and Kootenay National Parks. They got their name by miners that moved in to explore the area and were "bugaboo'ed" when they came up with nothing. The area was made famous by Conrad Kain in 1916 when he put up the 1st route to the top on Bugaboo Spire in what he called the Canadian Alps. At that time it was the most impressive Alpine ascent. Since then Bugaboos which consist of 3 main granite spires, Bugaboo, Pigeon and Snowpatch along with the infamous Howser Towers has been the "poor man's" Patagonia for North Americans.

I plan on posting more later but wanted to post these pictures for now, let every know what I am up to and get back up to Applebee cuz it ain't raining yet.

And a special thanks to Ryan McCombs for loaning me a 4 season tent. I wouldn't have been miserable in my southeastern 3 season backpacking tent. You are a fine Texan.

A break in the rain.

Bugaboo Spire w/ Snowpatch in the background (sent via Kain Route & the Northeast ridge).

Central Crescent Spire (sent via Lion's Way).

Snowpatch Spire w/ Pigeon Spire and the Howser's in the back ground L to R (sent via the Snowpatch Route, my favorite so far).

Descent w/ Kain Hut & Summer Flowers.

Hope all is well, wh.

Canada Day!! Happy 4th!! & goodbye to Squamish ....

2006-07-05T16:02:00.000-07:00

Squamish got a double hit of traffic this weekend. Saturday, July 1st, was Canada Day and of course Tuesday was July 4th. When in Rome (or Canada), enjoy the holiday as the natives do and I did. Canada Day, although apparently not as popular in the West as in the East was good time. The local city park pavilion played host to several bands and the weather encourage everyone to get out and enjoy. This is Karie with who might have been the most patriotic Canadian present.

Karie is visiting from Santa Cruz, CA on a mountain biking trip. Unfortunately someone lifted her bike while she was in Vancouver. We are all glad Karie didn’t turn tail and head home. Instead she pushed onto Squamish where we have been trying to convert her into a climber but, she insists that climbers smell bad and don’t bath enough. She may have a point. I think James and I have both had showers since that comment but not before I got Karie on the Squamish Classic Deidre.

I was able to get in some more climbing since my last post. I made it to the top of the Chief via Rock On 10a into Squamish Buttress 10c but was not able to tick the Grand Wall. I blame that on a summer head cold (whine, whine). It is hard to leave to the splitter cracks and near perfect weather of Squamish but I am ready to head to the Bugs and Canada day marks a good end to my visit in Squamish. I am gonna miss the splitter weather and perfect cracks.

Bugaboos Provincial Park (the Bugs) is in eastern BC near Banff, Alberta, between Golden and Radium Hot Springs, BC. I will probably check out Banff and maybe Calgary before I hump all my gear into the Bugs. By humping, I mean that I will backpack my gear into the Applebee Campsite for a 2 week stay. It’s a 3.5 mile hick with 3100’ elevation gain. More than likely it'll take two trips. That ought to get rid my head clod.

Internet Links for the Bugs:
http://www.britishcolumbia.com/parks/?id=65
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/bugaboo.html
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/kain.html

Some folks have asked what my schedule is like for rest of summer and fall; here it is in rough form:
Leave Squamish – 7/6/06
Arrive and enter Bugaboos – 7/8/06
Depart Bugaboos – 8/2/06
Arrive Spokane, WA – 8/5/06 (Montgomery Family Vacation and Mike's 21st Birthday)
Depart Spokane, WA – 8/8/06
Arrive Portland, OR – 8/9/06 (Mother and Lee Visit!! Columbia Valley Tour)
Yosemite Valley - 8/19/06
Leave the Valley and Head Home - 10/23/07
Marry off Cousin Amy!!! - 10/28/06
Halloween SlossStyle – 10/31/06

I don't expect to have internet access for a while so please write but, be patient on the response.

Oh Yeah, I also got a haircut. Jackie a friend of mine from Boulder cut it for me last week. It just got too hot so I dug out my clippers and now have what is called a faux hawk.

Hope this finds everyone well.

Squamish, BC - "Outdoor Capital of Canada"

2006-06-26T15:02:00.000-07:00

Well, I have been in Squamish, British Columbia for 3 weeks now and I have had some great climbing with great new friends and plenty of rainy rest days. Squamish is called the outdoor capital of Canada because it has everything you need from kite and wind surfing to mountain biking and trail running to world class rock climbing on perfect granite. Situated 40 miles north of Vancouver and 25 miles south of Whistler, there is always something to do no matter what the season or weather.

Of course I am here for the climbing and I have gotten to a lot of it in the past 3 weeks. I have also made some great friends along the way. This is my buddy Ryan from TX on top of the first and probably one of the best climbs we did at it's grade in Squamish. The mega classic Deidre 5.8 on the Apron. The fine city of Squamish is in the background and if it were Tuesday, you'd soon find us at the Pub for 1/2 price pizza.

From here we moved onward and upward. This is me on Memorial Crack 5.9 which we did as an add on to Vector and Memorial Flake.

In the three weeks I have been here a little (a lot) of rain has fallen but, we don't let that stop us. This is Mathew (climbing), David, Rico and I cragging on some hard cracks at the Smoke Bluffs.

While in Squamish, I have may have also witnessed a bit of climbing history. This is Sonnie Trotter sending Cobra Crack 5.14b/c, possibly the hardest crack climb in North America. It's much steeper than it looks.
We were fortunate to be up at the Cirgue of the Uncrackables have an off-width Friday session.

Of course Squamish wouldn't be Squamish without the bouldering. This is Ryan on the Easy in the Easy Chair a classic V4.

Multi-person, multi-pitch. With so much stuff to climb, time to climb it and friends to climb with; you can end up with a big crew on big rock for some big fun. This is Bret and Kristy on Birds of Prey 5.10a. They were going up beside Jackie, Logan and I on the Squaw. Our team was doing Godforsaken Land 5.10d. Both of which are great routes. This is crew on the summit, minus the photographer (me).

Last but not least, the Swiss-Germans. This is Stephan, Rico and Marco (from l to r) on the summit of the Chief. Rico, my neighbor for the last 2 weeks came to the Canada for a 3 month trip. At that time Rico could not speak English and only had "his teacher", a small translation dictionary, to aid him. He also was not a climber, "Clamper". None of this stopped Rico from backpacking, snowboarding and eventually rock climbing. In this shot he is wearing a harness I loaned him and pair of shoes he found on sale in town. Rico left this last Friday to return home as is back at work today. After a going away Swiss Fondue party we all presented Rico with his own, new climbing harness. I think most of us would say that they have never gotten so much from giving someone something as we did with our gift to Rico. Prost!!

You can follow Rico's trip @ http://www.hintis.ch/
And Ryan's trip @ http://www.wild-roads.blogspot.com/

Both are linked to my blog.

Good times in Canada!!

Mt. Rainier via Russell Cliffs …. Denied!!

2006-06-09T12:50:00.000-07:00

This is the route and highpoint that we made it to on Mt Rainier this past week. Our team, Jamie, Jeff (Willie) and I wanted to challenge ourselves with a less traveled more difficult route and settled on Russell Cliffs.

The approach to Russell Cliffs takes you from the White River Ranger Station @ 4000’ to Glacier Basin @ ~ 6000’ for Camp 1. From Glacier Basin you travel up around the lower end of the Emmons Glacier and a great view of Little Tahoma Peak on to Camp Schurman (high camp) @ ~ 9000’. This is the toughest day since you are carrying all of your gear and gaining close to 3000’ vertical over no more 2 miles.

Camp Schurman is high camp and provides access to multiple climbing routes while hosting up to 35 climbers. We were joined by 4 other teams, all of which were taking the most popular route, the Emmons Glacier Route. One team had plans to do a ski/snow board descent. We of course were headed for the rock banded ridge to the right, across the Winthrop Glacier.

Both approach days were cloudless and calm. Midnight on summit day proved a little different. We woke to a sliver moon and the lights of Seattle and Puget Sound. However a strong wind accompanied the clear skies and we all felt like conditions were changing. We made it onto the Winthrop Glacier a little after 2AM and planned to cross it before sunrise, 5AM. By about 2:30AM my right leg had found our first of 3 crevasses. I was awake before but really awake now. Jamie and I were on the ends of the rope with Willie in the middle, so we reversed and Jamie took the lead crossing a gorgeous ice bridge over a crevasse, around and through huge seracs.

We continued to swing leads and zigzag away around the glacier and up a dramatic 60 degree ice wall. Eventually, as the sun rose, Jamie fell with both feet, into a crevasse as well. We kidded about other teams watching our head lamps go, drop, retreat and go another direction only to drop and try again, all the while watching the summit disappear behind a cloud of snow that was coming our way. The morning continued on like this until we finally decided that the weak snow (we had been post holing in 10” snow), crevasse ridden Winthrop and the deteriorating weather was too much to surmount.

So after 6 hours of effort we turned around and started backtracking steps that were already being erased by the wind and new snow. I had learned a lot about glacier travel by this point but I got one more lesson before we exited the glacier. The lesson is, walking down hill applies a lot more pressure to the surface that walking up; puff, another punch through. This one, while still with only one leg, was completely unexpected and a real hair raiser. So in the end Jamie and I had tied one another; Jamie with 1 fall/ 2 legs, me with 2 falls/ 1 leg each totally 2 legs a piece.

While I am let down that we did not reach the summit, I am glad that we chose a route that engaged us as a team. Both rangers and the guide book noted that our route required route finding and an awareness of objective hazards. That our route was a quality route that didn’t see much traffic except by those that who wanted to avoid the crowds and go it alone. So we didn’t summit, we still had fine time trying and a good challenge in making our 11,000’ high point.

Indecently all of the teams from Camp Shurman were turned back that morning by bad weather, before reaching the summit. We were, upon returning to camp, greeted with hot tea from a climber that watched our efforts as we were the last to return. Good Tea!

Goodbye to Smith Rock Oregon but not to friends made …. And a little rant on US Customs.

2006-06-08T17:04:00.000-07:00

So I am headed out of Smith Rock and up to Mt Rainier to make reservations for our high camp and get climbing permits for our team.

Smith Rock has been great not so much for the climbing, which is stiff, but for the friends I made. I met up with a great crew that ranges from James (Calgary, AB), Julia (Vancouver, BC) and Joleen (Vancouver, BC) to Ryan (Waco, TX). James, Ryan and I are all on extended road trips while Julia and Joleen are long weekend warriors.

I had to put in this parting shot of the crew after our departure dinner, courtesy f Julia. Luckily we all have plans to hook up in Squamish in June. Good Times!!

A brief rant – Legally you only need a valid photo ID to drive or walk across the US/Canadian border until 2007. I know this because I mistakenly left my passport at home. Armed with only my driver’s license, I have crossed the border twice now. Both sides get frustrated with me for not having my passport but I explain and remain patient while I go through the process. My observation is this; the Canadian officials are thorough and concerned but polite and consistent vs. the US officials who are not as thorough or concerned and very arrogant and rude.

I do not like that visitors to my country are belittled upon entry. We can maintain safe borders and still be polite and welcoming. After all we are a country of visitors just ask the reservations full of natives that I passed in Utah and Arizona.

These are my own personal observations and some comments from others.

June Address - Squamish Canada

2006-06-05T19:09:00.000-07:00

I have a lot of posting to catch up on; some more Smith Rock Oregon pics and Mount Rainier Washington, so please be patient. They are coming soon.

My June address is:

Warren Harden
General Delivery
Squamish, BC V8B02

Hope everyone is well. The weather up here was gorgeous today.

Oregon - High Desert Rock and Volcanic Glaciers

2006-05-15T13:54:00.000-07:00

Oregon is treating me right. I got to Oregon last week and have been climbing almost everyday since. I started out by climbing Mt. Bachelor just outside of Bend, OR. At 9,064', Bachelor is mainly a ski mountain but a climbing route does exist up the back, west side. It was perfect for me because a weather system was coming in and I wanted to try out my bivy gear in weather. I found a perch at 8,500'and dug in (pic 2) with a beautiful view of the South Sister and Broken tooth. As evening came on, the winds picked up and clouds came in. I had a terrific night of intermitted whiteout and half moon, starry night conditions. The next morning I woke early boiled some snow for oatmeal and finished the climb making it back in time to get to a Laundromat (to dry clothes) by noon. Nice climb, really fun in the weather. From Bachelor I headed on to Smith Rock. Smith Rock State Park is just outside of Terrebonne, OR at ~3,000’. Since it is east of the cascades precipitation is minimal. Smith and the surrounding area is considered high plains desert and the mesas couldn’t be more beautiful especially with the snow capped cascades as a back drop. I made a partner that day and have been climbing most everyday since.

James, my climbing partner, even agreed to climb Mt. Hood with me. So after a couple days on the rock, we headed over to Hood. Under a clear sky we headed up Hood at 5 am on Wednesday morning. While were not the 1st on the route we were not the last either. We were, however one of the few teams with no skis. Skis would have been nice for the approach and the descent. These are some pictures of the route. The hogback ridge (pic 4), the Pearly Gates (pic 3) and of course the summit (pic 1) are some of the features in the pictures. I also managed to meet 2 Texans on the route. Walter and Ryan were each on the mountain separately but we all ended up making the final push together and Ryan has joined James and I back at Smith. Walt was good enough to contribute some of the better pictures, thanks Walter.

Back at Smith I have been fortunate enough to have a great guide in James. James spent a month here a few years ago and knows the park quite well. We have rotated between climbing sport routes and trad routes both in the main park and the gorge (pic 5). The gorge is all trad and the rock is Basalt which adds to the parks diversity. This past weekend we ended up climbing beside Dean Potter in the gorge. He and Steph Davis were at Smith for a Hera Foundation event to raise money for ovarian cancer.

I also got a chance to climb with an old friend. Angela Purviance and her boyfriend, John came up this past weekend. John choose to fish while we climbed. Their visit was great and it gave us reason enough to have big family-style supper complete with wine and a nice fire, good times indeed. Sunday, Angie, Ryan and I, in an attempt to find the shade, made our way around the other side of the park and I got this shot of Monkey Face (pic 7). James and I got on Monkey Face this week but with the heat and birds (their nest and droppings) we lost motivation a couple pitches below the summit.

Speaking of weather, its 89 here today and the forecast does not offer much relief over the next few days. I am starting to lean North and making my plans for Washington and British Columbia.

Harden (& Battles) Family Vacation ......

2006-05-11T19:03:00.000-07:00

The visits keep coming but this one even more special than the last. This last week I got to see my father, sister and nephew for a Harden Family Northern California vacation. Dad, Kim and Harden came into San Francisco on Friday and we hit the docks right away. Fisherman’s Wharf is a real treat for folks that love seafood but live in TN. Did you know catfish is not really seafood? Oh well, Saturday we hit San Francisco proper, ditching the car and jumping on the trolley. After a little instruction on how one should ride (not hang off of) on a trolley car we were on our way.

We made our way from Fisherman's Wharf up Hyde Street, over Knob Hill and down to Market Street to start the tour. From Market with cruised all the popular spots; Union Square, Chinatown, North Beach, Russian and Knob Hill. We walked it all. This is Kim and Harden in Chinatown after lunch.

Sunday we decided to leave the city and see some wine country. What would a visit to San Francisco be without a trip to Napa? This is a shot of Kim and Harden at Peju Province in Napa. From here we visited Beringer, Ramond, and lastly Folie A Duex where we met some nice folks from Memphis. The winery did not know what had hit them. Good times.

Monday, we decided to hit the coast and what a coast it is. Our first stop was a small state park along the Russian River to see the coastal redwoods, magnificent. From there we went onto the actual coast and Fort Ross. Fort Ross turned out to be real nice find. The Fort was actually established by the Russians when they still owned Alaska. It was a supply depot for the Alaskan colonies before being sold to the U.S. (Dad chime in with more history via a post). The Fort and the coast were amazing sites and Harden can say that he once defended Fort Ross!

From here it was back to San Francisco so Harden and Kim could fly out on Tuesday. After their departure, Dad and I hit Yosemite. It was amazing to me that in less than a weeks time the park had sprung into spring even further.

Dad and I didn't slow down a bit. We toured the valley proper on Tuesday, hiked out to Mirror Lake on Wednesday and hiked out to the granddaddy of all Giant Sequoias on Thursday. That is the Grizzly Giant and that little guy is my dad, Tony. Who looks older? Just kidding. The giant is some 2700 years old and huge.

It was a really great week. I have been fortunate to see so much since I have been traveling and it was really nice to share some of the new experiences with family. Thanks to Dad for setting it up, Kim and Harden for enduring the back, flip-down, cramped, thinly padded seats of my truck and California for the weather, sites and sounds.

Latest - I am now in Smith Rock Oregon. Climbing Tuff and Basalt Rock and even a mountain or 2. More on that soon......

Yosemite Honeymoon!!!!!

2006-05-04T21:12:00.000-07:00

Announcing Mr. and Mrs. Drew (& Casey) Sloss!!

I had a really fortunate opportunity to meet up with two of my favorite Nashvillians last week and during a very special two weeks for them. Drew and Casey (a.k.a. KCdrew) passed through Yosemite Valley on their honeymoon and while I didn’t return home for the actual nuptials, they did allow me to visit during the honeymoon. We did it up in true Nashville style.

I was able to beat them to the campsite and spend a few hours setting up the Yosemite Honeymoon Suite. The celebration was complete with firewood, King Cobra, slackline, banners, stir fry and an 8’x10’ tarp to shelter us from the spring rain. The Valley provided the rest.

We weren’t able to climb due to the rain but we thoroughly enjoyed each others company and the Valley in its full-on spring flow. And besides, everyone should have Curry Village pizza on their honeymoon and then sleep in rental van. It's a real must do.

Congratulations Drew and Casey!!!!!

q. Which is more dangerous, slackline'ing or getting married ……. or both?
a. Ask Drew

After Drew and Casey’s send off I did manage to get in a couple of days of climbing. Surprisingly, it cleared up after they left. (Is it supposed rain during your honeymoon?) The clearing weather gave me a chance to get on the South Face of Washington Column and to spend my first night a big wall. The weather was perfect and the huge dinner ledge made for a great bivy. Nighttime in the Valley is best viewed from above.

Great week in the Valley!

Leaving Las Vegas .........

2006-04-27T13:13:00.000-07:00

I managed to make it out of Las Vegas without gambling at all. It just didn't seem like a solid way to expand on my cash flow in a positive way. I did get all I wanted out of Red Rocks though and the trip was punctuated with a visit from Nashville hard man, James Parker.

Before leaving Erick and I suffered, I suffered anyway, up a 7 pitch sport climb. Unimpeachable Grouping 5.10d, named after a former president, was fun but I think I like multi-pitch trad better or at least belay ledges anyway. Erick rocked it though. On-siting every pitch and following all of mine clean. The route is in red and from the top out you can see the Las Vegas Strip. More on that later.

We did manage to find a super crack climb in the mist of all the sport climbing. Atman 5.10, was the one of the best routes I did in Red Rocks. That and Straight Shooter a 5.9 finger crack. Just to the left, in the picture, on the perpendicular wall is Yin Yang a super hard 5.11 finger to hand crack. I didn't manage to get it clean but I did enjoy it and would recommend it. Both routes are short but quality cracks.

The Hardman come'ith. James got out with us of for a day and went straight to work on The Gift 5.12 hard at the gallery. We worked most of the hard routes in that area and James took some amazing photos from the top of one route. (James send me copies or I will post your video, the one I call TAKE!!!!). I kept throwing myself at Yak Crack 5.11c with no success other than a great workout from 5 laps on it. All and all it was great day and was followed by great sushi and a little Vegas nightlife with the Parker family. Good Times.

Parting thoughts on Red Rocks are summed up with this shot of Zola (Fleming). Quit possibly the best crag dog ever. While I was ready to leave Red Rocks and the desert for that matter, I will miss climbing with Erick, Nicole and Zola. We have enjoyed some great climbing and each others company a lot. And, I needed to redeem myself on the chess board. As for Red Rocks, I give it a B-/C+. The area offers more diverse climbing than anywhere else and the weather, convenience and access make it great for short visits. Unfortunately that same access and convenience threatens the park. Quit frankly Red Rocks is too close to Vegas and Vegas keeps growing towards it. I hope the park, as a national asset, is able to defend itself against the local political and private business interest.

Next stop Yosemite!!!

Jackpot!! Red Rocks, NV

2006-04-08T19:48:00.000-07:00

Just 15 miles from the Las Vegas strip is Red Rocks National Park and it has all the color of Vegas! The red striped colors in the sandstone make Red Rocks a stand out and the diversity of climbing makes it a world class destination.

The climbing ranges from big wall traditional climbing to well protected, overhanging sport climbing. All of which is on beautiful sandstone. The area also boosts quite a selection of limestone sport climbing.

So far I climbed mainly single pitch sport climbs and the routes are fantastic. The rock features are endless and the walls go from slad to steep to roof, anything you want. I have done one short multi-pitch trad climb and found that the protection was solid and the climbing awesome.

With the weather continuing to improve, I would say the crux to Red Rocks is going to be getting around the 14 day camping limit. Someone send me a license plate so I can get another 14 days.

FALLING!!!!!!!!! April Fools....... got you

2006-04-03T10:27:00.000-07:00

It has been a great 2 weeks, 3 if you count the San Francisco Trip. This last week Erick, Nicole and I have been climbing cracks almost every day. Erick and Nicole although from different places originally were recently living in Nashville and are on a 5 month road trip themselves. They showed me the ropes in Hueco Tanks and I was able to return the favor here in Joshua Tree.

Erick and Nicole have both spent more time sport climbing and bouldering than trad (traditional) climbing. Joshua Tree was there first real sustained exposure to placing gear on lead routes. Both strong technical climbers, we played off each other well. Talking with them about gear placements, anchors and technique helped me to climb more comfortably. And being with them while they pushed there own comfort levels, leading harder & harder routes, helped me to push my own abilities.

I have had trouble red pointing (no falls) and especially on-sighting (no falls, 1st try) 5.10 trad. The last 3 days I managed to on-site a 10a each day; Effigy Too, Exorcist and Taxman. It was a great birthday present and an even better send off.

I am off to Red Rocks, NV. I own Erick and Nicole some overhung sport climbing, they have been good to me and now it's my turn.

New Post Office Address:
General Delivery
Warren Harden
Las Vegas, NV 89125

Also, check out Erick and Nicole's blog @ http://www.whereserick.com/

Joshua Tree – Much, much warmer…..

2006-03-28T07:40:00.000-08:00

It has been a great two weeks in Joshua Tree. Actually only one week, I spent one week in San Francisco getting some city life exposure. The week I was away, the desert got greener. It may not look it compared to the lush green landscapes in the southeast but, the trees are growing and growing greener.

Before leaving for San Francisco, I took an off day run out to the Lost Palms Canyon from Cottonwood Springs. I learned that Joshua Tree National Park was more diverse than I realized. The park is actually two deserts, the Mojave and the Colorado. The two have distinctly different plant life, notice no Joshua trees. Different types of cactus include this one, a Teddy-bear Cholla cactus with a view of the Salton Sea in the background.

The actual spring has its own place in history with evidence that dates back more than two centuries ago. The cotton woods and palms trees were brought in by the miners from the Dale Mining District and Mecca from 1890 to 1910.

The spring has pumped as much as 3,000 gallons of water a day and was piped as far as 18 miles away to the Iron Chief Mine in the Eagle Mountains. Fluctuations in the water table dropped the flow to only a few gallons a day until the 1971 San Fernando earthquake brought the flow to its present level of 30 gallons per day.

I have also had more time to explore the bouldering in the park on this trip. The rock at Joshua Tree is Quartz Monzonite Granite and has amazing friction. Boulder problems can be found within a short walk of the camp grounds and range from V0-Vhard on slopers, crimps, slabs, overhangs and dynos. The argument continues over which is better, Hueco Tanks or Joshua Tree. All I will say is Hueco is more developed and Joshua Tree is more easily accessed.

My future plans are to spend another week or two in Joshua Tree and then return to Red Rocks before heading north to Yosemite. The weather continues to improve and life in Joshua Tree is great. I can see why the park has to enforce the 14 day limit. Oh yeah and there is an awesome Thia resturant just outside of the park. With $10 buffet on the weekends, it's quite a poplar spot amoung climbers.

Uncle, I give – Last post from Utah for now….

2006-03-13T09:17:00.000-08:00

After over five days of snow and snow/rain, I give. I am headed for warmer weather and hopefully some sun. I am sure it will clear up hear as soon as I leave but with talk of another front coming through from the southwest, I figure I will head that way and at least expedite its passing. I am off for Joshua Tree, CA. This is about as far south and west as I can go without getting into Mexico.

I did manage to get out some in the storm and visit Canyonlands National Park which is adjacent to Indian Creek. The rangers at the visitor center are probably glad to see me leave. They have a nice warm visitor center with heated bathrooms, plush.

These are the needles of Canyonlands National Park, pretty impressive even in the snow. It was interesting to see the rock quality change so much in such a short distance. The rock here did not lend itself to climbing near as much as the rock in Indian Creek.

Also in the park is the Confluence, the juncture where the Colorado and Green Rivers meet. From here the Colorado goes on to help form the Grand Canyon. The hike to the Confluence is said to be the same trail that the early pioneers took when exploring the west. Now days the trail is marked with cairns, small rock piles. The cairns can bit little difficult to find in the snow but who’s in a hurry.

I hate that I am not going to spend more time in Indian Creek and the Moab Area (actually I have spent more than enough time in the town of Moab) but, I still plan to come back to Utah and visit Zion and see the Grand Canyon. Maybe I will hit Indian Creek again in the fall.

Next stop Joshua Tree, CA.

Temporary Mailing Address:
Warren Harden
General Delivery
US Post Office
57280 Yucca Trl
Yucca Valley, CA 92284

Snow Days – A good time rest, read, reorganize, and slowly go insane will lying in a prone position.

2006-03-10T15:53:00.000-08:00

Earlier this week the prospect of snow was a welcome break, a chance to rest and an opportunity for a change in the everyday. Now 3 days later and with the real possibility of 3 more days of snow, its getting a little old. But it does make for an interesting post and some time spent around town.

After returning to camp on Wednesday and finding much more snow than in town I took the opportunity to take what I thought were some rare pictures of the dessert covered in snow. What I didn’t know was this was just a dusting of snow. The real covering was yet to come.

Camp had changed since I had been gone. Most folks had left and one had arrived. A fire that night brought the remaining 3 of us together to talk about how quickly the sun would come out and how fast the rock would dry. This was surely a temporary event. I quietly planned my next trip to town in the event that we were wrong and the weather man was right.

Thursday did offer some sun and a chance to move around and stretch out. My two activities for the day, wood savaging at a nearby forest and setting up a tarp awning from my truck, were the highlights of my day. The awning especially made for a good challenge. When I first set it up there was no wind. Then came a wind from the west, then from the east, then the west again and this time with snow. Fortunately I had the time, patience and energy to workout a compromise that allowed me to cook and eat in the semi-dry while the evening’s entertainment brewed up. By dark the storm had built up enough that everyone, now 5 in total, retreated to their shelters.

I made some modifications the awning and turned in. It was probably around midnight that I decided to go out and take the awning down before the storm did it for me.

Dawn brought a whole new look to Indian Creek and to my truck, seven to ten inches of snow. Looks like its time to go to town, read some back issues of Climbing Magazine at the library, check e-mail, and maybe watch movie or something.

Utah - The trip to, as well as Indian Creek and Castle Valley

2006-03-07T17:35:00.000-08:00

What a drive! Once I got past Silver City, NM on my way to Southeastern Utah, it got gorgeous. I never realized how dramatically landscapes can change over such a short distance. Arizona, from what I have seen, is beautiful state. Several folks that I have met along the way encouraged me to visit and from what I saw along the drive, I need to. This is a sunset just outside of Alpine, AZ.

The next morning I drove through Monument Valley between Kayenta, AZ and Mexican Hat, UT. I had planned to drive through at night but, on my father’s recommendation I decided to stay over and see in during daylight hours. Good call. Awesome landscapes, almost like waking up in another country.

Indian Creek (adjacent to Cayonlands NP) – I finally made it. I had to dodge some free range cattle and one mule that almost took me out. I say that because, he would have won had we collided. I swerved and the mule stayed put, a game of chicken Utah style.

Steep sandstone cracks. Hand cracks, finger cracks, fist cracks, basically anything you want in the way of crack climbing (crack climbing is when you stuff your hand, fingers, toes, knees, shoulder, whatever in a crack, expand it and try to make upward progress) and the routes are long. Most routes are 100-120’ in length but do not top out (the rock up high on the cliff gets a little loose). Endurance and technique are a must and I have neither. We’ll have to give it a few weeks.

Castle Valley – I climbed my first desert tower. I am not a tower rat yet but I could be persuaded. Tom, a partner I met in camp and I sent Jah Man on the Sister Superior Tower, in Castle Valley. The tower and route itself was only about 400’ but the approach took over 1000 vertical feet of talus climbing making for some awesome exposure on the route. It the background are two lower towers, Castleton (to be done) and the Rectory closest to my left arm.

Cool nights, warm days and the desert keeps getting greener.

Last Post From Hueco

2006-02-24T19:10:00.000-08:00

It’s been a great week at the Ranch here in Hueco. I had originally planned to leave Hueco after a week but the weather in Utah and the climbing in Hueco made me stay. I started the week off by getting on a Volunteer Guided Tour to East Mountain. The tours are guided by climbers and give you access to the back country; East and West Mountain. There are also commercial tours but, they cost extra. Tours are a good way to get in the park if you do not have reservations. Mine ran out last week so I have been taking what I can get.

East Mountain was great. I am constantly amazed at how expansive the park is and East Mountain was no different. Everywhere you turn, crawl over or crawl under; there are more boulders and more problems to climb. It's endless.

I also spent some more time on North Mountain. North Mountain is all walk-ins. No guides are needed.

Rock Ranch Rodeo! The annual bouldering competition was this weekend and what a party. I needed a few days off from climbing to let my body recover so volunteered to help setup and register people for the comp. This earned me a hat, a meal and free admision to the party. There were close to 100 competitors and over 60 spectators. Ten dollars of every registration went directly back to the park. Everyone that registered got into on the party as well plus all the others that volunteered or just showed up out of the dessert. The party was complete with a huge bonfire, a local honktonk band, kegs and a Red Bull & Vodka bar.

Wednesday, I am going to head to Utah. I want to stop and do Mexican Hat on the way. It is only a couple of pitches and all aid. Aid climbing is when you use hardware to climb rather than free climbing which is where you use your body. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=5

Also, I have added The Grand Wall in Squamish to the "to be sent list" with Jamie Corkins. If anyone has any beta on it, please forward. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=2256

New Shipping Address (March 1st - 17th):
U.S. Postal Service
50 East 100 North
Moab, UT 84532 p.(435) 259-7427* One thing I have found out, the post office does not accept FedEx or UPS shipments. Please use USPS only and thank all you for sending me stuff. It’s a real treat.

News from Hueco

2006-02-18T12:10:00.000-08:00

The Rock Ranch is awesome. Wish I could say the same for the weather. Yeap, it even gets cold in Hueco but not as bad as everywhere else. The first day was nice. Only the wind kept me from wearing shorts and going shirtless even in the shade. Since then we have had some clouds and cooler temps. But its fine when you’re climbing.

I can't say enough about the Ranch, except for the porta lets, its has everything. A shower, wireless internet, a cooking shed and an insulated barn with chess boards, card games, TV and even a foosball table. The sites are pretty primitive but you're in the dessert and the dessert is great just the way it is. Clear nights and mornings are amazing.

The bouldering is world class and the problems are limitless. The park is regulated but the rules are sensible and access to the East and West Mountains can be gained by taking a tour. Reservations and an orientation session are required to enter the park, seeing some of the pictographs and flora explains why.

There has been no shortage of Nashvillians yet. I showed up Wednesday, then Eric and Nicole showed up Thursday and Jesse and Sammy came in for the weekend. I have also met folks from Seattle, French Canada, North Carolina and somewhere in Eastern Europe.

With the weather staying cold in Utah, looks like I will get plenty more practice bouldering (which I need). Hope this finds everyone well.

Warren

Updated Itinerary w/ New Visits

2006-02-10T14:42:00.000-08:00

A couple of brave souls have committed to meeting me. Below are 2 trips that are set.

Cascades and Smith Rock Climbing w/ Jamie Corkins: May 22 - June 6
Goal: Mt Rainier http://www.nps.gov/mora/

Yosemite w/ Chris Lewis: September 16 - 22
Goal: Serenity Crack
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral
East Buttress o f El Cap

This means I will be in California in the fall, most likely from late August until the end of October.

Current Itinerary:
Hueco Tanks (TX): Feb 16-24
Indian Creek & Zion (UT): Feb 24 - March 22
Red Rocks (NV): March 24 - ?
Joshua Tree & Yosemite (CA): April / May
Smith Rock (OR): May
Cascades (WA & OR): May 22 - June
Squamish (BC): June / July
Bugaboos (BC): July / August
Yosemite (CA): September - October
Somewhere warm: November

Hueco Tanks - El Paso, TX

2006-01-23T11:42:00.000-08:00

1st stop, Hueco Tanks. Isolated in the desert about 30mi. from El Paso, Hueco Tanks offers up world class bouldering inside what is thought to be one of the oldest and most unusual art galleries in the southwest. The park exhibits three thousand five hundred paintings on clean dessert rock that offers rock climbers a lifetime of bouldering problems and traditional routes.

Hueco Tanks was formed some 35 million years ago from molten rock, or magma that welled up deep within the earth. Initially covered by warm seas, geological forces uplifted the ground as seas retreated. Erosion then stripped away the Limestone leaving behind the more resistant igneous rock with natural basins called "huecos" in Spanish. The formations left behind help to capture and preserve some of the scare (only 8 inches) annual rainfall. This resource has brought many different inhabitants to the tanks. Artifacts have proven human inhabitance from as for back as ten thousand years ago.

Links -

Reservations (make 'em in advance):
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/hueco_tanks/

History:
http://www.desertusa.com/mag00/may/stories/hueco.html

Climbing:
http://www.huecotanks.com/
http://www.drtopo.com/

Accomodations:
http://www.huecorockranch.com/

Weather:
http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/vacationplanner/local/USTX0413?from=search_city

Details:
I will be staying at the Rock Ranch from Feb. 15 - 23rd. I have reservations in the park for Feb 16-17 and 20-22.

Temporary Address (Feb 15 - 23):
Warren Harden
General Delivery
El Paso, TX 79910-9998

The Trip is ON!!

2006-01-18T14:56:00.000-08:00

Well it is official, I am taking a road trip and the timing couldn't be better. The weather in TN sucks this time of year. I am working on a agenda but a rough version is below. I encourage anyone and everyone to join me whenever and/or wherever they'd like. My standing rule is that if you can get to within 2 1/2 hours of me, I'll pick you up and take you back for a 6-pack and a meal (a decent meal, nothing fancy just decent).

Feb 3rd, 2006 - Last day @ work
Fed 14th, 2006 - Depart TN
Feb 16th - Hueco Tanks, TX

From there -

Indian Creek - Feb / Mar http://www.mountainproject.com
Zion - March http://www.nps.gov/zion/
Red Rocks - March (March 24th-26th, Red Rocks Rendezvous) http://www.mgear.com/rr06/
Joshua Tree - April http://www.nps.gov/jotr/
Needles - April http://www.billandcori.com/california/needles.htm
Yosemite - April / May http://www.nps.gov/yose/
Smith Rock - May http://www.smithrock.com/
OR and WA Cascades - May / June http://www.nps.gov/noca/
Squamish - June / July http://www.squamishclimbing.com/
Bugaboos - July / August http://www.alpinist.com/climbing-notes/note/10139/
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/bugaboo.html

From there:
South - either back to CA or onto MT, ID and WY.

Back home for Thanksgiving.

Drop me an e-mail or make a post. I am looking forward to hearing from folks and making some plans.

warhar23@hotmail.com

Joshua Tree - Dec 2005

2006-01-18T14:47:00.000-08:00

Latest Trip was with Chris Lewis to Joshua Tree, CA. Three days of awesome weather and all the 5 star routes you could climb. To see all of the pictures go to: http://www.climbnashville.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=Joshua-Tree

Warren on Toe Jam (5.7)

Chris on Double Cross (5.7)

Warren and Chris on top of The Old Woman rock. This is the standard view at J Tree.

Recent Trips

2005-09-08T10:13:00.000-07:00

Trips:

Red River Gorge - Aug 2005

More pix @ http://www.climbnashville.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=882005RedRiverGorge

Yosemite - Oct 2005

More pix @
http://www.climbnashville.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album09

Looking Glass, NC - Glass Manegerie (V 5.11, A3)

Jamie leading out huge roof.

View from the belay below the roof.

More pix @ http://www.climbnashville.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=Looking-Glass